Article published September 2001

The first part of this article discussed the importance of selecting cock birds by judging them against the model, at the same time retaining the dominant stud cocks, to ensure continuity of the breeding line. Cock birds are usually the best and quickest means of developing a stud, as they can have a more far-reaching influence than hens, because they can be more productive over a longer period than a hen bird.

Role of the hen

Let us go back to the starting point - we wish to retain sixteen hens from a total of sixteen adult and twenty young hens produced that season.

The first point we considered when selecting cock birds was the role of the dominant cock. With hens, this is less important, as the hen is far less likely to be paired 'around the room' - i.e. to multiple partners, than is the case with the cock bird. Again however, there are certain hens that produce good stock regardless where they are paired, and these birds will be retained throughout their breeding life, based upon their previous history.

Initial selections

Taking the adult stock first, my 16 adult birds will generally include a number who performed better than others, perhaps the odd bird that failed to lay, or acted aggressively towards the cock, or failed to rear young, or a variety of other considerations. As the breeding season progresses, the performance of your hens will guide you as to which should be retained for the following season, and which should have their bags packed, assuming you breed sufficient young hens to replace them, as soon as they have successfully completed their moult.

Stepping back, it is important to remember that adult hens have already gone through the fanciers selection process as unflighted birds - initially earning their places because they more closely resemble the model than did the other choices available, or they had some other redeeming features, perhaps the right pedigree, for example. This being the case, the selection criteria the second time around is slightly different. Did the hen breed successfully? Was she a good feeder? Did she feed, but perhaps struggled along the way? Were her young of a reasonably even standard? Did she produce a mixture of stock, ranging from perhaps one good bird to several 'also rans'? Did she lay eggs? Average or above average clutches? How old is she - and will she still be of breeding age next season? Did she have a good, clean moult?

These basic questions will help determine whether the adult hen should be retained for next season. They will eliminate the poor 'producers' from the more reliable stock, and guide your selection, remembering that the adult hens you retain will be the foundation upon which you build next season's breeding successes - as unflighted hens can provide an entirely different set of problems.

There may be occasions when the answers to the basic questions above are negative, however, the hen in question is still worthy of future consideration. These particularly include unflighted hens that have failed to lay - maiden hens are unpredictable, and consideration should be given to retaining these birds for a second season, if their general health is not in question - remembering why they were selected in the first place. Usually, these hens produce eggs in their second year without difficulty. Equally, hens that 'walked off' their eggs as young birds, will often settle down in their second and subsequent seasons.

Consideration should be extended to hens which are beyond the optimum breeding age, but which are 'vice free' as these hens can prove excellent foster mums next year, even though they may produce few or no eggs themselves. These hens are effectively your 'insurance policy' and may get you out of trouble next season, particularly when a fair percentage of your stock will once again be made up of unflighted birds. I usually retain one or two of these birds, in addition to my total of 16 breeding hens, and each year they prove their worth.

Finally, the hens which were unsuccessful, perhaps not entirely through their own fault - interference from cock birds, clear eggs because of immature cocks, a change in the weather, disturbance by the fancier, a tiring show season prior to breeding, are all worth considering, particularly if the hen has a long pedigree, or is a particularly fine show bird. Keeping one or two of these hens is a calculated risk - and you are the one taking that risk, so be honest!

Aim for a balance

Selecting which unflighted hens to retain follows similar lines to the cock birds selection process. Judge them all as a single class, and then checking pedigrees, will provide the birds you require, plus a couple of reserves for late 'sex changes' or losses throughout the season.

There is of course, a notable exception when selecting hens, especially when developing a pedigree line. The sisters of the best hens carry similar genes to their sisters, even though they may not display quite the same type. Remember you will be pairing these hens back to the best cock birds you possess, and if they carry similar blood, the resultant offspring produced will be much more predictable, showing a continual improvement as the line develops. Genetic compatibility, rather than 'face value' pairings, is the way to long term success, and this can be achieved through the hen side of the line.

Check your register

You have now chosen your selected breeding hens for next season, consisting of a mixture of adult and young stock, together with one or two 'insurance' hens, and a couple of reserves. They have been through a selection process which involves type and pedigree in the first instance, followed by reliability for adult stock - the nucleus for your future success.

The only thing remaining is to choose which hens should be paired to which cocks, and this can be determined between October and March, as you follow the successes and failures of your stud on the show bench. Your best cocks can be paired to two or more hens, ideally the best related hens, if you wish to progress your stud rapidly.