| AND THEY'RE OFF Article published March 2004
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Early March will see the start of the canary breeding season for many people, particularly those who have used artificial lighting and added heating since the start of the year.
Just how you pair-up will be determined by several factors.
Pair breedingIf you are pair breeding, then the birds will be placed in their respective breeding cages, side by side, with a solid partition separating them. This is withdrawn slightly, allowing them to become friendly over a period of a couple of weeks, before the partition is completely removed. If all goes well, the birds will spend the entire breeding season in each other's company, unless fighting or other unnecessary activity takes place.
Running cock birdsFor those who run cock birds rather than pair breeding, then another approach is generally used.Each hen is placed into its own breeding cage, and a nest bowl provided. Once the hen attains a high breeding condition and builds a satisfactory nest, then her intended partner is introduced, and nine times out of ten, mating will take place instantly. The cock bird is then removed, only to be re-introduced on a daily basis until the first eggs are laid, signalling that his job is over. Whichever breeding method you intend using - and many fanciers will use a combination of both pair breeding and running their best cock birds, then remember not to rush the birds unnecessarily. Constant fighting (as opposed to the odd skirmish) is a sure indication that one or other of the birds is not in a true breeding condition, and the best course of action is to break up the pair, return the birds to their flight or stock cages, and try again at a later date. Sometimes a change of breeding cage is necessary to trigger nest-building activities, but generally, it is simply a question of timing. Try to be patient, and the odds are that your patience will be rewarded. It is important to recognise which birds are in a more advanced condition than the other birds in your stud, and pair these first. There is no point in working 'by the clock' and pairing every bird you possess on the same day, just because the calendar signals spring. Inevitably, some birds will take longer to attain breeding fitness, and will fail if rushed. The ideal state is to have some birds laying eggs each week throughout the season, rather than every bird laying at the same time. There are many reasons for this, one of which is that you can have a ready made supply of foster nests if the hatchings are staggered throughout the season, as fostered chicks will only survive if placed into nests of younger birds, generally speaking. Of course, it is also preferable to 'set' your hens in small groups, say two or three nests at a time, so that you have a safety net from day one, but the size of your stud will determine just how successfully you can accomplish this.
FeedingFeeding should include a regular supply of the rearing food you intend using, as well as the staple seed mixture. If you are using green foods, these can also be increased slightly, and soaked seeds may also be provided. Additives should only be used in accordance with the makers instructions, and if anything, under-used, rather than over-used. I wonder just how many fanciers dreams are spoiled by adding 'one for the pot' each year, and my advice is never be tempted to over-feed specialised products.Grits and cuttlefish should always be available, as they are particularly beneficial at this time of the year. Remember to give your birds a final dusting with an anti mite preparation, and of course to trim their excess vent feathering prior to breeding, to assist successful mating. Trim their claws also, as these can easily puncture eggs, or get tangled in nesting material, if left unattended. Perching should always be firmly fitted, as any looseness can affect successful mating. |